Genoa harbor waterfront buildings
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The Ultimate Genoa Travel Guide

From my five-week solo trip around North Italy, Genoa (or Genova, as apparently everyone but Americans and Brits calls it…whoops), surprised me the most. I initially added it to my itinerary simply because it was halfway on the map between Turin and Cinque Terre and was in big, bold letters on Google maps seemed to be a large city on the coast. The plan was to stay two nights, but upon realizing how expensive any accommodation even relatively near Portofino was, I tacked on three more nights and planned to use Genoa as a base for nearby coastal day trips

View over Genoa out to sea from Righi funicular station.

Turns out, that was the best decision ever, and something I highly recommend other travelers do when visiting the Ligurian coast! Thereโ€™s so much to see in the greater Genoa area, and Genoa is refreshingly not overly-touristed (which canโ€™t be said about a lot of Italy!). So whether you use it as a stopping point between Milan or France and Cinque Terre, or you visit it as a stand-alone-vacation, Iโ€™ve created this super-detailed and photo-filled Genoa travel guide to inspire and help you plan your trip!

IN THIS GENOA TRAVEL GUIDE, YOU’LL FIND:

Tall multi-colored buildings in Genova, Italy.
Rainbow flags in Genoa's narrow old town streets.
Food market in front of old church in Genoa Old Town.

Things To Do & See in Genoa

Iโ€™ve grouped the following in a somewhat logical order to see them, but check out my perfect two-day Genoa itinerary for the most efficient route to explore Genoa. Iโ€™ve even mapped out each dayโ€™s entire route for y’all to see visually. Check it out!

Via XX Settembre

Apparently, Genoa is suffering from an aging population, but you wouldnโ€™t know it from walking down this street. It’s got trendy shops, bright cafes, and young folks galore. Even if you donโ€™t plan to make any purchases, I recommend strolling down this street to experience the vibe. Genoa is a lot less touristy than your average Italian destination, so itโ€™s nice to see โ€œrealโ€ Italian life.

People walking on Via XX Settembre in Genoa, Italy.

Casa di Cristoforo Colombo

Although heโ€™s associated with Spain, Christopher Columbus (funny how drastically the Italian and English spellings differ!) was actually from Genoa – a fact Genoese seem to be very proud of. I stumbled upon this attraction very much accidentally, but as an American who grew up learning each year in grade school how he โ€œdiscoveredโ€ America (if you donโ€™t know yet: he didnโ€™t), it was interesting to envision where such a world-famous name grew up.

Porta Soprana

Heading through this 12th-century gate from the nearby Casa di Cristoforo Colombo, you can walk through a very calm area of Genoa. Not that Genoa in general is very touristy, but this area is even less touristy.

Two towers of Porta Sporana in Genoa, Italy.

Chiesa del Gesu dei Santi Ambrogio e Andrea

Itโ€™s free to enter, so why not take a peak? Plus, itโ€™s near a couple other attractions, so it wonโ€™t be out of your way either.

Chiesa del Gesu e dei Santa Ambrogio e Andrea interior in Genoa, Italy.

Piazza de Ferrari

A big square with a big fountain! Itโ€™s right at the intersection of a lot of important streets, so youโ€™ll likely pass by without even trying.

Statue of man on horse and large fountain in Pizza de Ferrari in Genoa, Italy.

Palazzo Ducale (Doge’s Palace)

I personally just admired it briefly from the outside, but you can enter and the palace and view any ongoing exhibitions. The price of the entrance depends on the exhibitions. See whatโ€™s going on during your visit at the official website.

Palazzo Pucale (Doge's Palace) in Genoa, Italy.

Genoa Cathedral

Walk along Via San Lorenzo to get here from Palazzo Ducale. Like the other church, it was also free to enter. Then, after viewing the church, keep walking the same street until you hit the Ligurian Sea.

Harbor Waterfront

The view of the water from here honestly isnโ€™t great (donโ€™t even think about swimming!), but itโ€™s hard to say youโ€™ve seen Genoa, once a huge navel power, if you havenโ€™t seen it from the water. Plus, the pretty, colorful buildings more than make up for the less-than-superb harbor views. Be sure to at least take a look at Palazzo San Giorgio.

Colorful houses along Genoa waterfront near harbor.

Galeone Neptune

Walking north along the waterfront, youโ€™ll eventually hit a brown, wooden ship with a statue of Neptune attached to the bow of the ship. Once you hit this point of the waterfront, Iโ€™d say youโ€™re good to turn east and head back into the city center.

Gelone Neptune ship in Genoa harbor.

Via Garibaldi

Also known as โ€œla Via Aureaโ€ (Italian for โ€œthe Golden Street)โ€, Via Garibaldi is home to government buildings, banks, shops, and more. The street also boasts palaces integral to Genoaโ€™s history as an important European power. The most famous of these palaces is Palazzo Rossi, which houses many works of art, and which you can enter for โ‚ฌ9.

Italian and Genovese flags hanging from buildings on Via Garibaldi, Genoa.

Spianata di Castelletto

The only thing better than a killer view of the water is a killer view of the water during sunset. If you donโ€™t have the stamina to climb stairs, you can take the elevator up (I believe โ‚ฌ2 each way, but donโ€™t quote me! In any case, make sure to validate your elevator ticket before going up, or you could get fined a hefty (and pretty unfair) fee!). The exact location of the elevator is here. Otherwise, save that cash for a gelato (from Antica Gelateria Guarino) or Sicilian granita (from Don Paolo) once youโ€™re up at the top. Grab your treat, and find an empty bench with your preferred view. This area is rather lively, with locals and visitors alike enjoying the view.

View of Genoa and Ligurian Sean from Spianata de Castelletto.

View from Righi

Another view? Yep! I initially was not planning to pay โ‚ฌ4 for the round-trip funicular ride necessary to see this one, but after learning about a 24-hour public transport pass (for โ‚ฌ10), I figured why not! I provide details in my two-day Genoa itinerary post on how to save money on this funicular ride by getting the pass. The exact location of the funicular station to go up is here.

View of Genoa and Ligurian Sea from Righi funicular station.

Piazza Della Erbe

Consider stopping by this area one evening. Itโ€™s very lively, filled with lots of young adults, outdoor seating, and multiple food options (one of them being vegan).

Spyros Walking Tour

My hostel highly recommended this โ‚ฌ1 walking tour (tips expected), so I rearranged my plans to join it. This is the only tour I took during my five-week solo trip in North Italy, and after taking it, I can recommend it as well! Itโ€™s led by a guy named Spyros, who moved to Genoa from Greece several years ago and clearly fell in love with the place enough to stay and lead this daily tour. Over the years, heโ€™s even worked out discounts all around the city for those who show his stamped tour card. Every tour is apparently a little bit different in terms of itinerary, so you likely wonโ€™t see everything Iโ€™ve listed above. But itโ€™s a great way to learn a TON about Genoa from someone whoโ€™s passionate about it and to meet other travelers to hang out with later. Plus, the โ‚ฌ1 fee apparently goes towards helping an issue very relevant to Italian coastal cities – the Mediterranean migrant crisis. Highly recommend this tour!

Buildings in Genoa, Italy.

The Best Day Trips From Genoa

Genoa makes an amazing base for some pretty epic Ligurian day trips! These are my favorites from my own visit to Genoa. I can’t wait to return and see more of this beautiful region!

Genoa Boccadasse

Colorful houses and public beach in Boccadasse, Genoa, Italy.

This is technically just a neighborhood in Genoa, but it makes a great full day trip when coupled with the next suggestion below. Boccadasse looks like a mini version of a Cinque Terre village, so especially if you are not able to make it to Cinque Terre, I definitely recommend stopping by here.

There is a beach in which you can swim, though I personally recommend swimming in any of the next suggestions below instead. Instead of swimming in Boccadasse, enjoy an aperitivo with a view. The vibe here is lively in the evening and the area is filled with young adults, so I think itโ€™s the perfect setting. 

Afterwards, walk the Corso Italia back to central Genoa. This 2 mile (3 km) waterfront promenade is an easy forty-minute walk that I recommend timing during sunset. If you’re hungry towards the end of your walk, stop by Ristorante Pizzeria Punta Vagno for fairly-priced pizzas and more.

How to Get to Boccadasse from Genoa

From in front of the Genoa Brignole train station, locate the bus stop for bus 31. Take this bus twenty minutes until you reach the stop Italia 6/Boccadasse. Hop off here, and walk two minutes to Boccadasse Beach. You can purchase bus tickets for โ‚ฌ2 one way at tobacco shops (Tabacchi).

Genoa Nervi

Tower silhouette during sunset over Ligurian Sea in Genoa Nervi, Italy.

I had no idea about Nervi until hearing about it from my hostel and again from my walking tour guide. I knew if it was recommended twice by locals, then it was worth doing! This is the best closest place to Genoa to swim in clean water. From the train station, you can walk along the Passeggiata Anita Garibaldi a Nervi, a walkway with gorgeous views. There is a pebble beach called Spiaggia Capolungo at the far end of this walkway, but I preferred and recommend choosing one of the many flat sections of cliffs along the walk instead.

Nervi also has a central town, closer to the train station. I recommend eating here if you donโ€™t have your own prepared food packed, as there arenโ€™t a ton of options once you leave this area to swim. The only real eatery is Osteria del Duca, which didnโ€™t open until 7:30pm for dinner on the day I was there. 

Personal recommendation? Combine Nervi with the above into one day trip! Arrive at Nervi in the early afternoon after eating lunch in central Genoa. Swim until youโ€™re getting hungry, then head to Boccadasse for aperitivo or dinner. From there, walk the Corso Italia back to central Genoa around sunset. I explain how in full, crystal-clear detail in my post on the perfect two-day Genoa itinerary.

How to Get to Nervi from Genoa

From Genoa Brignole train station, purchase a regional train ticket to Genoa Nervi station for โ‚ฌ1.60 each way. Trains stopping in Nervi depart several times an hour. DEFINITELY purchase your return ticket here too, as there is only one machine in the Genoa Nervi station. I missed two trains while my new travel buddy waited in the queue to make his purchase! Once you arrive, exit the station and head right to find the Passeggiata Anita Garibaldi.

Portofino

Colorful houses and large yacht in harbor in Portofino, Italy.

Made famous by the likes of George Clooney, this picturesque little village by a harbor needs no introduction. Whether youโ€™re staring at the large yachts in envy, eating in style at one of the main cafes (pricy!), or hiking in the greater Portofino area, there is so much to do.

Personally, however, I was less than impressed by this pretty little place. Due to its small size plus large popularity, I just did not like the vibe. Its few streets felt overly crowded, the gelato was the most expensive I saw during my entire five-week Italy trip (more than in Venice or Milan!), and it felt like a spot for retirees to just sit, eat, and shop.

That being said, the beaches were spectacular, and I would definitely recommend a visit here to see those and the surrounding scenery alone! If you hate overly-crowded, outdoor-shopping-mall type destinations like I do, simply budget two hours for the village and spend the rest of the day swimming. You can even rent kayaks and stand-up paddle boards from Outdoor Kayak, located on Baia di Niasca beach.

How to Get to Portofino from Genoa

From Genoa Brignole train station, purchase a regional train ticket for โ‚ฌ4.50 one-way to S. Margherita Ligure-Portofino station. (You can also purchase a faster Intercity train ticket for double the price, but half the travel time.) Exit the station, and from Santa Margherita, take a bus (โ‚ฌ5) to Portofino. Since you have to pass Santa Margherita to get to Portofino anyways, consider combining these two into one day trip – especially if you donโ€™t plan on swimming. I include full details on how to do so (as well as a map on where the bus stop to Portofino is located) in this perfect Portofino and Santa Margherita day trip from Genoa itinerary.

Santa Margherita

This place was only on my list because I needed to pass through it to get to Portofino, so I figured why not see whatโ€™s up. Ironically, I actually ended up liking it more than I liked Portofino. Go figure!

Santa Margherita, Italy during sunset.

While Portofino felt entirely catered to wealthy, older, foreign tourists, Santa Margherita felt like a real place of residence. Itโ€™s much larger than cute, little Portofino, but still not huge by any means. I noticed locals out and about; older men playing water polo in the sea; young girls taking turns riding a hover-board around the park, elderly couples relaxing on benchesโ€ฆ And, as you can imagine, food and snacks here are much more reasonably-priced than in nearby Portofino – always a plus.

There are plenty of places to swim in the Santa Margherita area, a little further up from town in the direction of Portofino. Simply walk along the road and stop once you find a place that looks nice! Or, take the bus (โ‚ฌ5) up to the best beaches in the area, right near Portofino.

How to Get to Santa Margherita from Genoa

From Genoa Brignole train station, purchase a regional train ticket for โ‚ฌ4.50 one-way to S. Margherita Ligure-Portofino station. (Again, you can purchase a faster Intercity train ticket for double the price, but half the travel time.)

Sestri Levante

Spiaggia del Silenzio free beach in Sestri Levante, Italy.

Iโ€™m only including this option for those with younger kids in their party, or those valuing a sandy beach above all other factors. Otherwise, I honestly cannot recommend this day trip! Sestri Levante, 75 minutes out from central Genoa by train, was probably the largest let-down of my entire trip. I read such positive reviews online about the only โ€œreal beachโ€ in the area, but it felt way tooโ€ฆ well, beachy! Towels out everywhere, children playing, tens of conversations all around you. If I wanted all that, I could have just stayed home in California! After having visited all the less-densely-populated beaches mentioned above, I wanted to leave right after I arrived in Sestri Levante!

I feel bad saying that, though, because the Sestri Levante was truly a beautiful place. The water was clear, food was affordable, and the restaurants were lively. Best of all, it all seemed full of nothing but Italians! Italian tourists, yes, but this was one of the only two places during my trip where I heard only Italian spoken as I walked around (Turin being the second). As you all know, I love experiencing places that seem more โ€œreal,โ€ especially in a country like Italy where so many cities seem reinvented to fit the needs of foreign tourists. It was nice getting a peek into what I guess is an Italian holiday spot

How to Get to Sestri Levante from Genoa

From Genoa Brignole train station, take a regional train to Sestri Levante station for โ‚ฌ6.10-โ‚ฌ9.50 one-way. Depending on what time you depart, the journey will take between 45 and 95 minutes. When exiting the station in Sestri Levante, walk straight to eventually hit the water.

Must-eat Foods Originating in Genoa

  • Pesto – green sauce made from crushed garlic, pine nuts, coarse salt, basil leaves, parmesan cheese, and olive oil
  • Focaccia – oven-baked bread with lots of yummy olive oil (apparently sometimes made with lard, so double-check if youโ€™re vegan!)
  • Farinata – unleavened pancake or crรชpe made from chickpea flour (vegan!)

Where to Stay in Genoa

If you donโ€™t know by now, Iโ€™m definitely a budget-conscious kinda traveler. I opted to stay in a hostel while in Genoa to save on costs, as well as to meet other people while I traveled solo. I can recommend this hostel, where I stayed for five nights to fully explore Genoa and its surroundings. It is a five-minute walk from the main train station, was clean, and the staff gave some great day trip suggestions. Itโ€™s a social hostel in that there are organized events every night, but it is still calm enough that a grandma like me had no problems. Itโ€™s not the cheapest hostel (I paid high-30-somethings USD a night), but itโ€™s not the most expensive either, and there arenโ€™t many hostels in the city. Breakfast is advertised as included, but itโ€™s so minuscule that I made a routine of getting coffee and a pastry for โ‚ฌ2.60 right down the street. 

While in Genoa, I met other travelers who stayed at this hostel, located in the historical center, and they seem satisfied with it.

What Do You Think?

Have I convinced you to add Genoa to your Italian riviera itinerary? For those of you who have been, what else should I have included in this Genoa travel guide?

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Complete Genoa, Italy Travel Guide. Includes everything to see and do in Genoa, main attractions, best Genoa day trips (Portofino, Santa Margherita, Nervi), Genovese food, and best beaches in the Genoa area.
Complete Genoa, Italy Travel Guide. Includes everything to see and do in Genoa, main attractions, best Genoa day trips (Portofino, Santa Margherita, Nervi), Genovese food, and best beaches in the Genoa area.
Complete Genoa, Italy Travel Guide. Includes everything to see and do in Genoa, main attractions, best Genoa day trips (Portofino, Santa Margherita, Nervi), Genovese food, and best beaches in the Genoa area.

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23 Comments

  1. Hi Em,
    My wife and I are visiting a few places in Italy in July inc Milan, Florence and Genoa. I enjoyed reading about your time in Genoa and will certainly take on board your suggestions and tips. Thank you
    Steve

    1. Hi Steve,

      Thanks so much for taking the time to let me know! Sounds like a lovely trip. Hope you have a great time in Genoa and the other spots!

      – Em

  2. I was planning a trip there very soon but was starting to rethink after several things I read and two Italian colleagues saying it’s very rough and not safe. Sounds like you were fine as a woman alone on public transport and walking even at sunset etc. What’s your comments re safety?
    Thanks

    1. Hi Sarah,

      Interesting! I never read/heard anything that made me worry before my trip. After having been there, it’s definitely a bit on the grungier side, but I truly felt like just a bit. Enough to give it character, but not enough that I felt any shock upon arrival (like I did for example in Naples the first time). I felt totally safe alone on public transport and walking alone in the day, and it actually never crossed my mind that people might think otherwise until your comment!

      I have a rule that I never am out alone past dark when traveling solo somewhere new/where I don’t speak the language, so I actually did not do that in Genoa. I was out at night with a group I met from the tour, one of whom I walked back to my hostel with bc she was staying there too. The walk during sunset was with someone else from that group, but at another hostel, and we parted ways some blocks away from my hostel. But by then I had been in the city a few days.

      Hope that helps!

      – Em

    2. Hi again!

      Just thinking a bit more, I remembered that during the tour, that there was one group of streets where the guide said it’s a bit of a mini red light area, so maybe that is the image your colleagues have of the city? This was in broad daylight though, and I literally would not have even blinked twice if the guide had not pointed out that this work gets done in that area. But maybe at night it’s a little more obvious than it was, at least to me, in the afternoon.

      – Em

  3. I’m going to Genova in a few days and will base only on your suggestions! Thank you for such detailed itineraries, your writing is amazing ๐Ÿ™‚

    1. Hi Katarzyna,

      Thanks for taking the time to leave your kind comment! I really enjoyed Genova and hope you will too!!

      – Em

  4. My partner, family, and I are basing our 12-day trip to Tuscany in Genova and this is veeeeery helpful since we are budget-friendly travelers with a wide age range among us. Also, we are planning a couple days in Santa Margherita (we’re playing in a sea-side music festival #dreamcometrue) and your excitement about being there is making me excited too! Thank you for your exuberant writing and helpful insights. I’ll be bookmarking this page to use for immediate reference while we’re there.

    1. Hi Michael,

      Thanks so much for taking the time to let me know that! I’m glad to have been of help in your trip planning. ๐Ÿ™‚ I really love the region of Liguria and am sure you and your party will too. Best of luck with the music festival โ€“ sounds super cool!!

      – Em

  5. I love posts that tell you what’s worth it and what’s *not* worth it, like the water views of the port and when you can stop walking and just turn back. Excellent. Neat post.

    1. Hi Tom,

      Thanks for taking the time to let me know that! Iโ€™m glad you liked this post, and I hope you enjoy Genoa!

      – Em

  6. What a charming little place! I havenโ€™t heard much about it previously so this has definitely made me want to visit!

  7. I like the idea of making base in one place and then doing daily trips – this way you don’t need to pack and unpack everyday which saves energy and time! And Genoa does seem like a nice place to stay ๐Ÿ™‚

  8. It’s great to see there’s so much more to this area than the overpriced Portofino! Would you say the hostel you stayed in would be suitable for families? Thanks

    1. It definitely wasn’t a “party hostel,” and I found it totally fine for getting enough shut eye. The hostel did have a young-adult vibe, organizes events like wine tastings, and people do go group up and out together. So I guess as long as you don’t mind that and booked an entire room, it could work!